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Triumph oil filter - Fuel filter with check valve.

Triumph Oil Filter

triumph oil filter

    oil filter
  • a filter that removes impurities from the oil used to lubricate an internal-combustion engine

  • An oil filter is a filter to remove contaminants from engine oil, transmission oil, lubricating oil, or hydraulic oil. Oil filters are used in many different types of hydraulic machinery.

  • A cartridge-filled canister placed in an engines lubricating system to strain dirt and abrasive materials out of the oil.

  • Joy or satisfaction resulting from a success or victory

  • victory: a successful ending of a struggle or contest; "a narrow victory"; "the general always gets credit for his army's victory"; "clinched a victory"; "convincing victory"; "the agreement was a triumph for common sense"

  • the exultation of victory

  • prevail: prove superior; "The champion prevailed, though it was a hard fight"

  • The state of being victorious or successful

  • A great victory or achievement

Dave with 1972 Triumph T150V Trident in October 2007

Dave with 1972 Triumph T150V Trident in October 2007

My gorgeous T150V 'Purple Haze' was bought off eBay in September 2007 as an early 50th birthday present to myself. It is basically good but the carbs are completely worn out and it burns a lot of oil so will need some work over the winter. Planned improvements are a set of Mikuni carbs, Tri-Spark electronic ignition, piston rings, pistons and rebore as necessary, repair cracked right sidepanel and new fork seals. On the plus side the motor is mechanically quiet, the gearbox and clutch feel solid, the brakes are good, the chrome is all good and there is no rust anywhere.
September 2007: In the three weeks I have had it I have replaced the battery with a sealed one, replaced the wire headlamp brackets as one was bent, replaced the perished instrument rubbers and replaced the flattish handlebars with higher US export bars.
October 2007: Fitted Mikuni carbs, went for a run and blew the head gasket. Found the head bolts were not much more than finger tight. A week or so later I removed the head and was delighted to find that the motor has just been rebored to +20 and the honing marks are clearly visible and the pistons are shiny and new. Found the reason for oil burning from right hand cylinder which was full of oil to above the piston crown! The exhaust rocker box drain drilling in the cylinder block is blocked at the base by silicon gasket cement so the rocker box has been filling with oil which has gone down the valve guide. The valve guides do not seem particularly worn though. Have polished the valves and decoked the head. There is no apparent valve seat pitting or recession. It also has mushroom tappet adjusters. Just need to get the block off to clean the oilways then put it all back together again.
November 2007: Blew air down the clogged cylinder block oil drains and cleared the obstruction. So I now probably have a blob of silicon floating around in there. Decided not to worry - the gauze filter should stop it. Tightened up base nuts which were not very tight.
Got engine running with new Mikuni carbs. Easy to start now but still burning as much oil as before. Oil light comes on at slow idle.
December 2007: Stripped top end again and removed barrels. Nothing obvious. Have decided to strip engine right down to renew all bearings.
Still December 2007: Haven't been able to raise the courage to start the tear down yet. Been reading the forum and making feeble excuses like it's cold out in the garage...
January 2008: Starting to take bits off. The exhaust camshaft was one tooth out. That was a bit careless Previous Owner.
The idler pinion shaft has some wear although the bronze bush looks OK. I will try to get the needle roller version I think.
February 2008: Removed the primary drive which appears to be in good condition.
March 2008: Removed the oil pump and clutch which was nice and dry and looks good. Lifted engine out and removed gear clusters and timing side engine case. Getting closer to the crankshaft now.
April 2008: Finally split the cases and extracted the crankshaft. It has not been reground but has some scoring. The bearing shells are also scored especially the mains that are worn down to the copper.
May 2008: Removed the Main ball bearing which is quite rattly and also the mainshaft ball bearing which is also rough. Layshaft needles all fell out too. I will fit all new bearings.
Arranged to buy exchange tuftrided crank and Carrillo rods from P&M next week - then the rebuild can get under way!
Stripped forks to replace seals. One of the seals is upside down which explains the leak from that side. The springs are different lengths so will fit progressive springs.
Honed bores with ball hone in an electric drill - very effective. Sent barrels and head off to be sand blasted clean.
Collected exchange crank from Richard Peckett of P&M in Brentford. He had kindly fitted the Carrillo rods for me. The quality and beauty of the engines he is working on has inspired me to do a much better job of cleaning and polishing the cases etc.
Have had the head and barrels shot blast so are now nice and clean. I notice that the middle exhaust port is much smaller than the others. Have taken the head, barrels, camshafts and tappets to P&M for gas flowing, new valves, guides and springs and tappet surface finishing etc. Also ordered my Tri-Spark and Viking big bore three into two exhaust system.

1928 Rudge Whitworth

1928 Rudge Whitworth

1928 Rudge Whitworth 500cc seen at the 2010 Cheshire Steam Fair held at Darsbury, near Warringron, Cheshire.

Rudge Whitworth Cycles was a British bicycle and motorcycle manufacturer that resulted from the merger of two bicycle manufacturers in 1894, one of which descended from the original bicycle company founded by Daniel Rudge. Rudge motorcycles were produced from 1911 to 1946. The firm was known for its innovations in engine and transmission design, and its racing successes. The company also produced the first detachable wire wheel in 1907 and was known for its knockoff wheels on sports cars well into the 1960s.

Their main production bike was the Rudge Four, so called because of the four speeds and four valves, not four cylinders. This single cylinder 350 cc machine showed markedly superior performance to the competition on release, having more power than its 500 cc predecessor. Rudge engineer, George Hack, is said to have taken his design idea from the four valve head Ricardo-Triumph Special of 1921, a one off machine. He designed a four valve head for Rudge and in 1924 they produced their first four-valve cylinder head on a 350 cc engine. The valves were arranged in parallel, and were not radial.
In 1925, a 500 cc version with linked front and rear brakes appeared, and the big end bearings were now fed oil through the crankshaft pin. The old 350 cc was dropped in 1926. For 1928 Rudge motorcycles (including this one) were fitted with saddle tanks, and 8 inch internal expanding drum brakes.

_Technical Data
Camera: Nikon D300
Lens: Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 DC MACRO EX Lens
Lens: AF-S Nikkor VR 70-300 G IF-ED Lens
Focal length: 28mm
ISO: 160
Aperture: f3.2
Speed: 1/2500 sec
Processing: Photoshop CS4
Filter: None_

triumph oil filter

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