FAUCET WATER FILTER SYSTEM. CARBON FILTER TANK.
Faucet Water Filter System
- The combination of a filter and associated hardware required for the filtration process.
- A device by which a flow of liquid or gas from a pipe or container can be controlled; a tap
- A tap is a valve controlling release of liquids (faucet and spigot are the terms used in the U.S.) or gas. In the British Isles and most of the Commonwealth, the word is used for any everyday type of valve, particularly the fittings that control water supply to bathtubs and sinks. In the U.S.
- a regulator for controlling the flow of a liquid from a reservoir
- (Faucets) Every faucet consists of a spout and control or handles to deliver potable water to the kitchen, bath, bar, laundry room etc. They have an inner valve that controls the flow of water through the spout.
- supply with water, as with channels or ditches or streams; "Water the fields"
- body of water: the part of the earth's surface covered with water (such as a river or lake or ocean); "they invaded our territorial waters"; "they were sitting by the water's edge"
- This as supplied to houses or commercial establishments through pipes and taps
- One of the four elements in ancient and medieval philosophy and in astrology (considered essential to the nature of the signs Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces)
- binary compound that occurs at room temperature as a clear colorless odorless tasteless liquid; freezes into ice below 0 degrees centigrade and boils above 100 degrees centigrade; widely used as a solvent
- A colorless, transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid that forms the seas, lakes, rivers, and rain and is the basis of the fluids of living organisms
Pure Touch AquaSuite Water Filtration Kitchen Faucet Finish: Chrome
77100 Finish: Chrome These PureTouch AquaSuite Water Filtration Kitchen Faucets are the optimal addition to your kitchen. For their design, durability, and decodance these filtration faucets are valuable culinary assets. Plus they're attractive and reliable. Features: -Under counter water filtration system -MicroTech 9000 filter included -Filter reduces poor taste and odor, 99pct of chlorine, 99.25pct of lead, 99.99pct of cysts, 97.7pct of lindane, 97.5pct of atrazine, 90.45pct of mercury and 98.9pct of turbidity, keeps beneficial fluoride -Average filter life 6 months (750 gallons) -Electronic filter life indicator -Two spout sizes included - 1 gpm flow -See PDF links for dimensions and additional information Installation Instructions Technical Data
Na'Pali Coast Shoreline
This is 4 shots combined into one. Not quite that overdone HDR that you see (and I hate) but still, it took several exposures to get the full range shown here. Basically, each shot is responsible for properly exposing a different part of the scene. While you may think HDR and Photoshop is your solution to all your problems....Below I've written a more detailed "why" section that explains exactly why filters are useful. Even in "HDR" photographs where you might think that software will cover all your bases. It might, but it doesn't allow for the long exposure that gives you smoother water. Additionally, because of the filters (and yes, also, multiple exposures) I did not need to color the sky. I didn't need to color or tint anything actually in post production. The shorter exposures brought in the blue, naturally, with the help of the circular polarizer. Of course you could also spend a lot more time post processing and creating detail that wasn't in the actual image, based from memory, too. If you're crazy like that =)
While it's not my best photograph, I like this shot and explaining it. It's a very technical shot. I want to remember why I did the things I did so the next time I find maybe a better scene and composition, I can remember what I did here. So I'm gonna go a little further here and write "why" for each thing I did and filter I used.
The focal length was 17mm, not super important. Why? Because wide angle is good for landscape photography obviously. Have to watch out for barrel distortion. Software can correct that, but I didn't in this case. You can see some distortion, but I think it's hidden and works with the angle that I shot on. Looking down the coast there was this bend in it. So I liked that line and didn't bother trying to work out distortion from the lens. The right side is straight enough for me in the horizon.
ISO and f-stop:
100 ISO and f/22 because I wanted to make the shutter speed as slow as I could.
Why? Because I wanted everything to be in focus and as sharp as possible (allowable by the lens) and also have this silky water effect from a longer exposure. The longer the exposure, the more movement in the water (any water, ocean, stream, waterfall, faucet, etc.) and the smoother it appears in the photo. If this was a shorter exposure, which is quite possible because it's so bright, then the water would be harder and more rough. I wanted a softer feeling in the photo. If the exposure was long enough, the water could end up looking like fog even.
Why? It darkened things so the shutter speed was slower. More importantly, it allows the glare on the water to be controlled a bit and adds blue into the sky. I almost always use a circular polarizer for skies alone.
0.6 Graduated Neutral Density Filter (Cokin filter system):
Why? Again, it unavoidably darkens things...But since it's a gradient, the bottom part where the sand is didn't have any negative effects. Meaning, it was clear and not darkened. This filter was turned on an angle so it covered the brightest areas of the scene. The main purpose for this filter is to cover the sky (or other bright areas, but mainly skies) in photographs so that they are balanced out. Ever see white skies in photos? This filter would help bring back color in because the dark portion of the filter would take longer to expose. So instead of being blown out, it would retain detail. I had to physically hold the rectangular filter for this shot because of all the filters I had stacked. Otherwise, the Cokin filter holder would have been visible along the edges of the shot. I didn't want to have to crop this photo. The circular filters already were slightly visible (I cloned them out, but it does contribute to some of the vignetting that you see). These do come in colors, but mine was a colorless gray/black.
0.6 Neutral Density Filter:
A normal neutral density filter without any gradients. It's basically like putting on sunglasses. The non-polarized variety. It will darken things so the exposure has to be longer. Why? So that the exposure was long enough to capture movement in the water. Other uses? Well that's the main use in my book, but you could also use a neutral density filter to remove people from a scene. For example, if there's some building you're trying to photograph and a bunch of people walking by on the sidewalk...You can't just tell everyone to stop walking by your shot...Instead, you could use a neutral density filter so the shutter speed was long enough that a person would have to be standing in one spot for a while in order to show up in the photograph. Anything that was not consistently in the scene wouldn't be captured. It's not perfect, but it's your best chance at eliminating things like that. The people may not be moving fast enough. So, there's a variety of these neutral density filters, commonly you'll see 0.3, 0.6, and 0.9. This value is how dark each filter is and how many stop
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